Selective Amnesia

Ponniyin Selvan, relived.

I went to Tanjavur recently, from there to Kodikarai. (Leg 1 of Vanthiyathevar’s journey)

While in Tanjavur (I spent more time in Tanjavur on this trip than on previous ones) I found that a lot more things were associated with the Marathis than the earlier kings. The current palace, apparently built by the Nayaks on the site of the earlier Chola palace, is now a museum and library, devoted to the collection of Raja Serfoji. Every where you turn, it’s his face beaming out of tapestries and statues and book covers.

Yes, the Chola dynasty lived a 1000 years ago, and what is written in PS is more fiction than fact, but I am assuming some kind of copper plates or something were discovered? They have been moved, apparently, to Delhi. No idea why. The library is but two bookshelves and some display cases with Urdu and French and German books, and one meagre tamil copper plate, that too from Serfoji’s time. There is a copy of Kamba Ramayanam, in palm-leaves, from 18th century. But that is all the Tamil I could find here.

Wouldn’t it make more sense to have some of the archaeological finds from Tanjavur IN Tanjavur itself? And not some dust-ridden shelf in an ill-visited, moth-infested building in Delhi? And, none of the guides in the museum have heard/read of Ponniyin Selvan.

As for the temple – renovation is apace. The entire west side – the outer-prakaram – is being dismantled, new granite pillars and beams put up in their place. While the workers are trying hard (and achieving) to replicate the overall shape and size of each of the pillars, the inscriptions and, um, old-ness of the thing is gone. The inscriptions, I heard, will be traced out, and studied in Delhi, while the pillars will be shipped – some to Madras ASI office and some to other places. Perhaps another moth-infested, dust-ridden, ill-visited building. FUCK!

On the other hand, I spent a large amount of time admiring Parvati and Sivakami’s breasts. And Nataraja’s face and hands. Murugan seems to like playing the guitar, if his pose and facial expression are any clue.

On the journey to Vedaranyam (from whence to Kodiyakarai. Yes, I am ELATED!) I wondered if I should go back in time, and introduce Nedrasya Nedumara Pandiyan and Raja Raja to each other. I wonder what that collaboration will result in.

Vedaranyam is a sleepy town about 8-10 kms from the beach at Kodiyakarai. Between these two places is the forest that I’m guessing gave Vedaranyam its name – primeval forest. Anyway, this forest area has been turned into a sanctuary – Point Calimere bird sanctuary. Here, wild horses, foxes, rabbits and plastic bottles roam without let or hindrance.

In the sanctuary is a shrine. Apparently, though Rama crossed over to Sri Lanka from Rameswaram, he first came here, stood on a little hillock and contemplated his next step. This hillock is the highest point in the sanctuary (at about 20 msl) and from the top, one can easily delude oneself that one is seeing the Emerald Island up ahead. If in fact Rama stood here, I am sure he’ll have no trouble whatsoever finding shoes to fit him. I estimate he’ll be at best a Bata size 6. Tiny, very tiny feet.

Where Rama is, can Hanuman be far away? Monkeys, surely brothers (and sisters) of the Delhi boys who attacked our esteemed leader, in abundance. Almost snatched my FM10. I had to let go off a pack of Good Day (was to be my breakfast) to save the camera. Perhaps they’d planned it all?

Kodiyakarai is also site of a Navy and Air force detachment. The Navy folks are very possessive. And paranoid. I was subjected to the third degree when attempting to shoot the sun caught between the masts of two fishing barges. I now fully support a labour union for unemployed, amateur photogs. The Navy boy who questioned me, after much explanation, didn’t budge. Wanted some kind of ID. Luckily, I had with me the business card my ex-ex agency had given me, and on which it was announced to all and sundry I was a writer. I gave my friend the card, told him I write for a magazine called Interface that deals with technology aiding travel. My branch manager is going to get one majorly confusing call soon.

The Sanctuary I was speaking about also, um, sanctuarises a lighthouse dating to Chola times. Rains, and the fact that, that part of the sanctuary was about 4 feet under water, prevented me from actually standing next to it. I suppose it was better that way. I’d have surely hugged, kissed, gone down on a knee and more, if I’d gotten any closer than I did. Speaking of closer – 12x optical zoom counts for zilch when the sky is grey and so is everything near you. One very gloomy, and one very jittery shot are all I have to prove I was “there”.